Second Trip to Koh Tao
In August 2024, I found myself back on the island of Koh Tao. I wrote about my first trip here — back then, everything felt new and exciting, though at times a bit rushed: not everything went smoothly due to poor planning and a few mishaps. This time, things were different.
This was a planned trip — I knew in advance who I’d be diving with and how things would go. I had a clear sense of what to do and what to expect.
At the same time, I knew this trip would be a farewell — not just to Koh Tao, but to Thailand as a whole. In just a month, I’d be leaving the country, with no idea of what would come next for my diving journey. One thing was certain: the days of diving every week were coming to an end.
That’s why this trip felt special — a farewell and a memory to hold onto. Maybe that’s also why I’ve put off writing about it for so long. But now it’s time to share the story.
Day 1 – The Road
The first day was all about the journey from Phuket to Don Sak. Traveling across Thailand in the low season is a real pleasure. Sure, you might get caught in a sudden downpour at any moment (which we did), but it usually doesn’t last long. And with empty roads and scenic views, the trip becomes especially enjoyable.
By evening, we reached the pier and found a place to stay nearby. The day ended with a beautiful sunset. The journey had begun.
Day 2 – Dive Center
July through August is considered the peak season on Koh Tao, so I was expecting crowds. Still, I was a bit surprised to see that the ferry picking us up was smaller than the one I took in April — and yet it was packed. By the time we transferred in Samui, it became obvious the season was in full swing: we barely managed to squeeze ourselves onto the second ferry. Thankfully, we eventually made it to the island, and the most stressful part of the trip was behind us.
After checking into the hotel, we headed straight to the dive center. This time, I went with the team at Master Divers, and I couldn’t have made a better choice — everything went smoothly, clearly, and without any fuss. We dropped by the office, shared our diving experience, filled out the paperwork, and arranged two morning dives and a night dive.
It would be Nastya’s first night dive, so they invited her for a short theory briefing an hour before the dive and even said they’d provide paperwork so she could log it toward her Night Diver certification. As for me, with my Assistant Instructor certification, that part wasn’t necessary. We paid, agreed to meet at the office the next morning — quick, easy, and pleasant. Exactly how a dive center should work.
Maybe it sounds like I’m promoting them, but after my previous trip — where I lost two days because I was basically ghosted, and the staff at another center just didn’t care whether I showed up or not — this time everything went so perfectly that I could finally breathe and relax. So no, it’s not an ad — it’s a genuine recommendation. Though, to be honest, I did have a backup list of other centers… just in case something went wrong and I had to find a replacement on the fly.
In general, one of the most important factors for a great dive is who you’re diving with. The mood, safety, comfort — all of it heavily depends on your buddy. This time, my buddy was a colleague I’d dived with multiple times before. I knew I didn’t have to worry about her and could count on what to expect.
All that was left was to hope we’d get lucky with the divemasters. And we really did. For all the dives, we were with Steve and James — guys who don’t just lead groups, but live and breathe diving. They gave it their all: doing their best to show us as much cool stuff as possible, never rushing to end the dives, and approaching each one with genuine enthusiasm. In short, they weren’t just doing a job — they were clearly loving every minute of it.
Day 3 – Finally, Diving
I woke up at six in the morning. Breakfast was simple: onigiri, yogurt, and a handful of nuts. I grabbed my gear bag and headed to the dive center office. James greeted us there — we introduced ourselves, he handed Nastya the remaining rental gear, made sure I had everything I needed, and once Steve arrived, we made our way to the boat.
Dive centers on Koh Tao generally fall into two categories. Some board directly from the main pier, where boats line up in a long row and you sometimes have to clamber over ten others to reach your own. Others depart straight from the beach, with a longtail taking you out to the dive boat. We had the latter — it saves time and makes loading and unloading much more comfortable.
On the boat, we got to know each other a bit more. Steve, our divemaster, asked about our diving experience, was glad to see such a seasoned group, and mentioned that it would be a great opportunity not only for us but also for James, who was wrapping up his divemaster training and assisting today. It would be good for him to dive with more experienced buddies.
Originally, the plan was to start at the No Name Reef, but Steve suggested beginning with the wreck of the HTMS Suphairin 313, which lies just 15–20 meters from the reef. From there, we’d play it by ear depending on the conditions, remaining air, and bottom time. Of course, we agreed — and just like that, I added another shipwreck to my personal list.
HTMS Suphairin 313
In September 2023, an event took place on Koh Tao that didn’t go unnoticed by the local diving community: two ships — the HTMS Suphairin 313 and the HTMS Hanhaksattru 312 — were deliberately sunk just off the island’s coast. The idea of creating artificial reefs had been discussed since 2019, but it wasn’t until 2023 that the plan finally became reality. These ships were a valuable addition to Koh Tao’s already well-known dive sites.
HTMS Suphairin 313 is a ship with a story. Built in the mid-20th century, it was equipped with fairly advanced systems for its time and served for many years in maritime security operations — both along the coast and on international missions.
After more than 40 years of service, the Suphairin was sunk just 15–20 meters from No Name Pinnacle, on the eastern side of Koh Tao. The location wasn’t chosen randomly: the reef is known for its vibrant underwater environment and diver-friendly depth, and the addition of an artificial reef brought even more marine life to the area.
The top of the wreck sits at around 16 meters, while the deepest part lies at 28 meters. This makes it accessible for recreational divers while still being deep enough to attract more advanced explorers.
Since being sunk, the ship has started to grow coral, quickly becoming a home for marine life and blending naturally into the ecosystem. It’s not just a fascinating dive site — it’s a contribution to underwater restoration. Plus, having a new dive spot helps reduce pressure on the neighboring reefs, which are already quite popular.
HTMS Suphairin has quickly become a favorite among divers. It’s suitable for both beginners and experienced divers. Whether you want to sharpen your skills, take a course, or just explore the wreck’s underwater landscape, this site has something to offer. With a mix of depths and navigation challenges, no two dives here are ever quite the same.
White Rock
Our second dive was planned at the White Rock dive site. During my last visit to Koh Tao, I had dived here at night, but this site is especially popular during the day. It’s one of the places where whale sharks are often spotted in season — and we were really hoping to see one. Especially since it had been regularly seen here all throughout the previous week.
The pre-dive briefing focused almost entirely on how to behave if we encountered this magnificent creature. It’s just a shame that none of that knowledge came in handy on this dive.
White Rock is one of the most popular and frequently visited dive sites on Koh Tao. Between two clusters of underwater hills lies a true coral garden. These hills rise up from around 25 meters deep, essentially piles of boulders densely covered in corals and sponges. The place is teeming with marine life — everything is moving, shimmering, and alive.
Near the seabed, under ledges, small schools of green chromis dart around, while sweepers hide among the rocks. Beneath large boulders, giant moray eels wait for nightfall when it’s time to hunt. Between the rocks swim titan triggerfish, yellowtail barracudas, and blue-ring angelfish. The striking red-breasted wrasses, with their “red vests” and bold stripes running from fin to tail, instantly catch the eye. Occasionally, green sea turtles show up to snack on corals — so focused on eating that they let divers come surprisingly close.
White Rock is usually divided into northern and southern sections, though they’re close enough that a single dive is plenty to see the whole site. Visibility ranges from 10 to 20 meters. It’s a fantastic place for both day and night dives. At night, you might see barracudas hunting or glowing corals — the so-called “sea feathers.” And of course, there’s always a chance of spotting a whale shark… if you’re lucky.
Junkyard Reef – Night Dive
After the morning dives, we had time to relax and grab some lunch. While we were eating, the dive center called to say Nastya didn’t need to come in early for the night dive briefing — they’d explain everything on the boat. I have a feeling Steve had something to do with that: he probably told them we were fine underwater and she didn’t need a separate lecture.
So we arrived at the dive center just in time for sunset. We were greeted by Jaycee and another diver who was taking their AOWD course, and together we headed out for our evening dive at Junkyard Reef.
Just 400 meters off Mae Haad Beach, to the southwest, lies one of Koh Tao’s most unusual dive sites — Junkyard Reef. This artificial reef, created in 2006, has become a hub for environmental education and a great training ground for beginner divers.
The depth here is shallow — between 8 and 12 meters. Visibility varies a lot depending on the season, from as little as 2 meters up to 12. But outside the southwest monsoon season, the water tends to be calm and the conditions stable — perfect for training and night dives.
The project was launched by the team at Eco Koh Tao. The idea was simple: use safe but discarded materials to build underwater structures. Various objects were placed on the seafloor to attract marine life and help form a new reef. Local businesses supported the effort, donating equipment — including old gym machines.
Over time, the reef expanded: metal frames were added, coral nurseries were installed, giant clams were introduced, and reef restoration programs began.
Today, Junkyard Reef is buzzing with underwater life and a steadily developing ecosystem. Corals are being transplanted onto purpose-built structures, creating a vibrant, living underwater landscape.
This reef has become not only a unique dive site but also an inspiring example of how coordinated efforts between dive centers, volunteers, and conservationists can transform the marine environment.
Day 4 – More Diving
Since the first day left such a good impression, we decided not to go looking for adventure elsewhere and arranged with the dive center to continue diving with them for the rest of our stay on the island. They promised to take us to different dive sites each time — sounded perfect, and so far everything was going smoothly.
Today promised to be especially intense: four dives back-to-back.
Chumphon Pinnacle
After my first trip to Koh Tao, a dive instructor friend who lived on the island was genuinely surprised: “Wait, you went to Koh Tao and didn’t dive Chumphon Pinnacle? That’s the crown jewel of the island!”
So on my second visit, I corrected that "mistake" and finally made it to this legendary dive site. Visibility wasn’t ideal that day, unfortunately — but it was more than made up for by the massive schools of fish swirling around the pinnacle.
Chumphon Pinnacle is considered one of the most impressive dive spots around Koh Tao. Located about 10 kilometers northwest of the island, getting there takes around 45 minutes by boat.
Depths range from 14 to 40 meters, making it suitable for both newly certified divers and more experienced ones. The main underwater peak rises from about 35 meters up to 15 meters below the surface, surrounded by smaller coral-covered outcrops.
On a good day, visibility can reach up to 35 meters, giving divers a clear view of the spectacular seascape. Around 18 meters, a thermocline sometimes forms — a sharp temperature layer that makes the water appear cloudy or hazy.
Marine life here is especially active in the morning: reef fish leave their shelters, barracudas hunt in the open water, and the whole site pulses with life. Thanks to its biodiversity and size, Chumphon Pinnacle consistently ranks among the top dive sites in the entire Gulf of Thailand.
But there’s a flip side to its popularity — during peak season, it can get pretty crowded: dozens of boats, divers surfacing from every direction.
Mango Bay
Afternoon dives on Koh Tao are typically done in shallow bays, and our first one of this kind on this trip took place at Mango Bay. After the intense and sometimes exhausting morning dives, this one felt especially relaxing — 66 minutes underwater at a depth of 7–8 meters, drifting slowly between large boulders and watching vibrant parrotfish and bannerfish. It was exactly what we needed.
Located on the northern side of Koh Tao, Mango Bay offers a calm atmosphere and ideal conditions for those new to diving as well as snorkelers. Depths range from just a meter near the shore to about 20 meters in some spots, making the bay suitable for various skill levels.
The western side of the bay is known for its dense coral gardens, while the eastern side features massive boulders covered with colorful coral growth. This mix creates a picturesque underwater landscape rich in shapes and vibrant hues.
The center of the bay consists of a sandy bottom surrounded by reefs. The openness of the bay allows for good water circulation, and dives here are usually calm — as long as the weather cooperates. Visibility tends to range from 10 to 20 meters, allowing divers to fully enjoy the underwater scenery. A small stretch of white-sand beach along the water adds to the peaceful atmosphere.
Marine life here is lively: schools of colorful fish roam the area, including titan triggerfish and various parrotfish species. Near the sandy bottom, next to the boulders, you can often spot rays resting, partially buried in the sand.
Mango Bay is popular among dive centers as a training ground. It’s commonly used for practicing basic skills like buoyancy control, underwater navigation, and marine life identification. It’s the perfect place to begin your journey into the underwater world with confidence.
Twins Pinnacle + Buoyancy World
We wrapped up the day with a dive that took us to two sites at once: Twins Pinnacle and Buoyancy World. I’d been here before during my first trip to Koh Tao, so I won’t go into much detail — if you’re curious, you can find full descriptions in that article.
Honestly, I’m still a little surprised by how dive sites are mapped out around Koh Tao. It’s said that there are up to 40 different dive spots around the island, but many of them are located so close together that during a single dive (40+ minutes underwater), you can technically “visit” several sites in one go.
I’m not sure if that’s done to make the stats sound more impressive, or if there’s no real intention behind it — maybe it just turned out that way over time. Either way, it’s an interesting little quirk about diving on Koh Tao.
Day 5 – A Slower Day
This was our second-to-last diving day, but after the packed schedule of the previous days, we decided to take it a bit easier and stick to just two morning dives. Besides, the afternoon boat was fully booked with students, and they were headed to Mango Bay and Buoyancy World — the same sites we’d visited the day before.
Green Rock
Our first dive of the day was at Green Rock — a site I was already familiar with. Last time I dove here, I didn’t get a single photo because I forgot to put the battery in my camera. This time, everything went differently — I finally managed to capture the site in all its glory.
Green Rock is made up of a massive collection of rock formations and boulders that create grottos, tunnels, and small caves. Because of its structure, it’s considered one of the more exciting sites to explore.
Last time, the current was so strong we practically got blown through the grottos without having a chance to properly look around. But this time, the conditions were much calmer: we moved slowly, exploring the underwater caves and passageways, enjoying every moment.
As a bonus, we encountered a group of giant groupers, some nearly a meter long! It turned out to be a surprisingly relaxing dive — something our guide Steve said was pretty rare for this site. He was especially glad we were diving as a small group, which allowed us to take our time and really absorb the surroundings.
Red Rock
Before our next dive, Steve joked that over the past two days we’d already “dived through the whole Italian flag”: Green Rock, White Rock, and now — Red Rock.
Red Rock is an underwater pinnacle off the eastern coast of Koh Nang Yuan, near Koh Tao. The top of the rock starts at around 4 meters, with the bottom descending to 16–20 meters.
Its standout feature is a large horizontal crevice on the eastern and northern sides, located around 16 meters deep. Inside, you might find shrimp, nudibranchs, moray eels, and blue-spotted stingrays.
If you follow the wall southward toward Japanese Garden, you’ll encounter table and madrepore corals, along with schools of butterflyfish and bigeye snappers.
And if you turn west toward the Koh Nang Yuan shoreline, you’ll find yourself at Nang Yuan Cave — an underwater tunnel formed by massive boulders, around 12 meters deep. The cave forms natural “halls” with sunlight streaming in from above. Inside, blue-spotted rays and other marine life are often spotted.
The site is accessible even to Open Water divers, but because it’s close to open sea, strong currents are not uncommon — so staying alert is key. A dive light is useful for exploring the cave and crevices.
And of course, keep an eye out for titan triggerfish, which can aggressively defend their territory. Best to keep your distance and watch them from afar.
So yes, this day really did turn out to be a recovery day. After the morning dives, we simply strolled around the island, enjoyed some great food, and watched yet another sunset — no rush, no plans, just living in the moment.
And tomorrow — the final day of diving. Four dives in a row to wrap it all up. A packed and fitting end to the trip.
Day 6 – Last Dives on Koh Tao
The morning of the final day felt quietly melancholic — but at the same time, I felt genuinely content. Our first dive was scheduled at South West Pinnacle, which gave me a bit of time on the boat to soak in the view of the island, the calm morning sea, and finally collect my thoughts... or more accurately — to let them go completely and just be in the moment.
I knew: this was it — the farewell day with Koh Tao. One last chance to spot a whale shark. The final real adventures, and dives at new sites. No, these wouldn’t be my final dives in Thailand — I still had a few weeks ahead on Phuket, with planned dives around Phi Phi and the now-familiar island of Racha Yai.
But when would I return to Koh Tao again? I had no idea. Still, I figured — there would be time to feel nostalgic later. Right now, I just wanted to enjoy the moment. The sun. The boat. The sea.
"Later" came about nine months after. :)
That’s how long it took me to finally sit down and write this article. =D
South West Pinnacle
South West Pinnacle is one of the best deep dive sites near Koh Tao. It’s often overshadowed by the more famous Chumphon Pinnacle — but it’s no less impressive.
The site consists of seven large granite pinnacles arranged in a near circle. The central one rises to just 5 meters below the surface. The classic dive profile here is a deep descent followed by a slow spiral ascent around the pinnacle — giving you a full 360° view of the underwater landscape.
Because it’s located in open water, conditions here can be challenging — strong currents and unpredictable visibility are common. But when the conditions are right, this site is absolutely mesmerizing.
The top of the main pinnacle is covered in a carpet of sea anemones — a perfect place to end the dive. Cracks and crevices are home to a variety of marine life: blue-spotted stingrays, giant moray eels, blackspotted puffers, and dozens of macro critters. In the water column, you’ll see huge schools of yellowtail barracuda, bigeye snappers, and Java rabbitfish. Look out into the blue and you might spot Spanish mackerel, large tuna, or barracuda cruising by.
The pinnacle is bursting with life — coral diversity, shapes, and colors are simply stunning. It’s one of those places that stays in your memory.
There’s also a “secret” pinnacle, located about a 5-minute swim southeast of the main site. It’s best visited in good conditions and ideally on Nitrox. Unfortunately, the conditions weren’t on our side this time, so we couldn’t make it. Hopefully next time.
Hin Pee Wee
Our second dive was originally planned for the HTMS Sattakut again — but considering the visibility likely hadn’t improved after two nights of rain, we decided not to waste time and headed straight for the nearby Hin Pee Wee reef.
I’d been to this reef before, and... well, let’s just say it didn’t exactly blow me away. I mentally labeled it as a bit boring.
But this time was different: the reef felt much livelier and richer. Lots of fish, great conditions, and I was in the right mood to enjoy it. I even managed to snap a pretty great portrait of Nastya.
Aow Leuk Bay
After lunch, we headed to the eastern coast of Koh Tao. Two new divers with Open Water certification joined our group, so the upcoming dives were planned to be shallow. But, as often happens in the shallows, marine life was so vibrant that we didn’t feel the need to go any deeper.
Our first site was Ao Leuk Bay — known for its calm, clear waters, gently sloping sandy bottom, and coral patches. The average depth here is around 16 meters, with visibility usually between 5 and 10 meters. It’s a great spot for beginners, training dives, and snorkeling.
Ao Leuk can roughly be divided into two routes: the northern side, leading toward Aow Leuk Point, and the southern side, known as Hin Ngam. Between them lies a broad sandy area, ideal for skill practice. Both zones are covered in hard and soft corals growing on large boulders along the shoreline.
If you swim southeast along the coast, you’ll reach Suan Olan — an artificial reef created in 2010 following a coral bleaching event. It includes a reef pyramid, a Mini Cooper car, various concrete pipes, a reef house, and cement blocks. Over time, these structures have become home to a wide range of marine creatures.
Thanks to its shelter from waves and currents, Ao Leuk is popular not only among instructors and beginners, but also underwater photographers. It’s a peaceful place to work with a camera and capture marine life in its natural, undisturbed setting.
Tanote Bay
Our final dive took place in the calm, wave-protected waters of Tanote Bay. This site offers a blend of natural reefs, man-made structures, and a rich variety of marine life, making it ideal for divers of all skill levels.
Depths range from 5 to 18 meters, and on good days, visibility can reach up to 20 meters. The gently sloping seabed allows divers to enter directly from the beach — no boat required — which makes it perfect for beginners or those who prefer more relaxed diving conditions.
In the center of the bay stands a large rock — not only a striking visual marker, but also a favorite jumping spot for thrill seekers. Divers often find "souvenirs" on the seafloor — dropped by brave (or reckless) jumpers.
The northern part of the bay holds the main coral reef, home to massive sponges, brain corals, and boulders that provide shelter for butterflyfish, angelfish, and other reef dwellers.
South of the reef, concrete structures — including artificial cubes and spheres — have been placed as part of a reef restoration project. These installations are now covered in coral and teeming with marine life.
Nearby lies a sunken catamaran, now a thriving shelter for marine creatures: under its hull you might spot a resting Jenkins’ ray, while octopuses, pipefish, spider crabs, and shrimp hide among the coral-covered surfaces.
Slightly off the main route lies a sunken motor scooter. Modest in size, but it's become home to a damselfish known for its territorial behavior — it's not shy about chasing off overly curious divers.
Tanote Bay is especially loved by underwater photographers, particularly macro enthusiasts. It’s the perfect place to take your time, move slowly, and capture the miniature beauty of the reef.
And finally, some of the most memorable sights: schools of yellowtail barracuda, triggerfish, green sea turtles, and even striped sea kraits gracing the underwater scenery.
Epilogue
And just like that, the diving on Koh Tao came to an end. A final goodbye to the dive masters, a failed attempt to properly dry all the gear, a last dinner — and that was it. The next day, we hit the road back to Phuket.
When we first drove to Koh Tao, the car was filled with lively, almost non-stop conversation. The return journey was very different — I was quiet most of the time, deep in thought. Sure, we didn’t see a whale shark, and not every dive was to a brand-new site. But honestly? The trip was still a success.
There were great dives, good company, and a vibrant, fascinating underwater world. Koh Tao is a fantastic diving destination, and as soon as I get the chance — I’ll definitely go back.